Navigation
Search This Blog

Return to KLWines.com

Drinking to Drink Interview Archive

Spirits Journal Podcast Archive

Spirits Journal Twitter Feed

K&L Uncorked Blog

K&L Spirits Tasting Schedule

2015 K&L Exclusive Scotland Whisky

1992 Clynelish K&L Exclusive 21 Year Old Cadenhead Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


2001 Bowmore 12 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


2008 Caol Ila 5 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1995 Craigellachie 18 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1995 Miltonduff 19 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


2007 Mortlach 7 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


2004 Smoky & Peaty Tobermory (Ledaig) 8 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Laphroaig 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Macallan 21 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Tamdhu 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Tobermory 18 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1990 Girvan 24 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1978 Port Dundas 36 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1964 North British 50 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Faultline Blended Scotch Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


2014 K&L Exclusive Scotland Whisky

SMWS 36.82 Benrinnes 17 Year Old "Rare Release" Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1988 Blair Athol 25 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Refill Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


2001 Bowmore 12 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Refill Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1990 Bruichladdich 23 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Refill Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1997 Glen Ord 17 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Hogshead Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1995 Glenburgie 19 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Hogshead Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1997 Glenrothes 17 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Refill Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1998 Mortlach 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Sherry Butt Finish Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1995 Imperial 18 Year Old K&L Exclusive Signatory Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Kilchoman K&L Exclusive 100% Islay Single Bourbon Barrel #344 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Kilchoman K&L Exclusive 100% Islay Single Bourbon Barrel #345 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1990 Glenfarclas K&L Exclusive Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Glenfarclas "The Faultline Casks" K&L Exclusive First Fill Oloroso Sherry Casks Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1997 Bunnahabhain Heavily Peated 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Chieftain's Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1998 Laphroaig 15 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Refill Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1983 Caol Ila 30 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


2002 Bowmore 11 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Refill Sherry Hogshead Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


1992 Bruichladdich 21 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1988 Balmenach 25 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


1997 Benrinnes 17 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


1997 Dailuaine 16 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


1995 Glen Elgin 18 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


1997 Glenlivet 16 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Sherry Butt Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!!


1981 Glenlivet 32 Year Old Signatory K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


Bladnoch "Young" K&L Exclusive Heavily Peated Single Barrel #57 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


1997 Glengoyne 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive "Sovereign" Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky SOLD OUT!


Kilchoman K&L Exclusive Single Bourbon Barrel #172 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Kilchoman K&L Exclusive Single Bourbon Barrel #74 Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky IN STOCK NOW!


Wednesday
Apr222015

Malternative Nation @ Bar Agricole Next Week

As time goes by and I get older I'm much more interested in a lasting experience than I am in a lasting bottle of booze. Part of the reason that people are willing to pay more for whisky today is because whisky keeps. You can nurse a $100 bottle over the course of many years, rather than plough through it all in one night like you need to with wine. But I've got too many open bottles of whisky at home already these days. Personally, I'd rather have one awesome $100 night on the town, than I would one awesome $100 bottle of whisky at home; even if that night only lasts the course of a few hours. Part of the reason I enjoy traveling to Scotland each year is because of the memories I create while tasting with different people, sharing ideas, holding a glass of whisky while I learn more about it and increase my awareness of the spirit. Those are the moments that ultimately last, far longer than that last tiny bit of Port Ellen 30 I'll probably never get around to finishing. But where can you have such an experience around here? Who will provide you with a unique, interesting, exciting, and engaging evening full of Scotch variety and intrigue where you can talk casually but intently with other connoisseurs and professionals? We can! There are still tickets available for this coming Tuesday's whisky event at Bar Agricole on 11th Street in San Francisco's SOMA neighborhood. We're pulling out all the stops on the patio for what should be a glorious evening. I'll be there along with some of my co-workers to guide you through a huge selection of our most-recent arrivals, including some serious selections that should make your head spin. Check out what's included:

-Unlimited food and snacks.

-Unlimited cocktails made with our latest creation: the Faultline Blended Scotch Whisky.

-A detailed tasting of our latest K&L exclusive whiskies direct from Scotland, including:

Caol Ila 5 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $49.99

Bowmore 12 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $79.99

Smoky & Peaty Tobermory (Ledaig) 8 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $59.99

Mortlach 7 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $49.99

Craigellachie 18 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Sherry Butt Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $99.99

Miltonduff 19 Year Old Hepburn's Choice K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Malt Whisky $99.99

Laphroaig 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky $139.99

Tamdhu 16 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky $99.99

Tobermory 18 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky $109.99

Girvan 24 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky $99.99

Port Dundas 36 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky $149.99

Macallan 21 Year Old K&L Exclusive Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Single Barrel Single Malt Whisky $249.99

North British 50 Year Old Sovereign K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Single Grain Whisky $249.99

Plus, the chance to be one of only 40 people allowed in to this intimate experience. You won't have to line up or get herded through the room like cattle. You'll have all the room and time you need to soak it all in (so will your liver). You know you wanna come! Buy your ticket below:

K&L & Bar Agricole Present "Malternative Nation," Tuesday, April 28th, from 6:30 PM to 9:30 PM $100 -Join us on the patio at Bar Agricole in San Francisco for a thorough tasting of our entire 2015 selection of single malts and grain whiskies from Hepburn's Choice, Sovereign, and Old Particular. Thirteen spectacular single-barrel expressions will be available, along with Scottish snacks and appetizers cooked up by the BA kitchen. Only forty tickets will be made available, so this will not be a packed house. It will be an intimate tasting with K&L staff members on hand to walk you through each exclusive bottle. There are no paper tickets for this event. Your name will be placed on a guest list. There are no refunds once tickets have been purchased, so please don't reserve a spot until you're certain you can come. We'll see you there!

-David Driscoll

Wednesday
Apr222015

Four New Private Casks of Whipnose

I really love what my friends over at Seven Stills are doing. You wanna talk about the modern spirits movement? Nothing embodies it more than what Tim and Clint are doing with their inventive and innovative line of beer-distilled whiskies; quality, clarity, and a whole lotta fun! The bottles are small and kooky (taking a page from the current craft beer craze), the flavors bold and exciting, and the action never seems to stop. What I love most of all is their intent to do something entirely new with the category. It's not about how old their whisky is, what type of casks they were aged in, or whether they used a pot still or a column still. It's 100% about the flavor of the beer, and how these two young chaps are able to mature their spirits into soft, drinkable whiskies that still taste very much like the liquids from which they were distilled. It's not beer schnapps. It's not single malt whisky. It's something entirely new, and absolutely delicious.

Imagine distilling the bright, hoppy flavors of an IPA like Pliny the Elder into a whisky that balanced those wildly-pungent skunky notes with sweet vanilla and a note of maple syrup to soften the finish. For $35 you're getting something completely new and surprisingly satisfying. Remember: these guys are distilling drinkable and bottle-ready IPA, so their overhead doesn't involve cheap grains and a bag of yeast. This stuff isn't cheap to make. The real question is: knowing how much it does cost to produce, is it still worth doing? Fuck yeah it is. Trust me: this stuff rules.

We picked out four tiny casks from the new Seven Stills batch of Whipnose exclusively for K&L. Check it out:

Seven Stills K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #11 Whipnose Whiskey 375ml $35.99Whipnose is the first in Seven Stills’ Collaboration Series; a project that partnered them with Pacific Brewing Laboratory, located in San Francisco.  They began by distilling each of Pac Brew Lab’s beers individually to see if they could make a unique whiskey. As soon as they tasted the results from the double IPA, they knew they were on to something. 60 barrels of Whipnose IPA were then brewed, distilled into 165 gallons of whiskey, and aged in new American Oak Barrels. The name Whipnose aptly describes the whip of hop aroma this whiskey opens up with.The taste is rich malt, dark, dried fruits, light vanilla, toasted oak, and with a smooth, lingering maple syrup note on the finish. Lucky for us, after a successful first run with the product, we were able to go back into batch two and select some of our own private casks of Whipnose exclusively for K&L! Barrel #11 has sweeter oak notes and bright citrus hops on the entry with a long, lingering finish of skunky IPA goodness. YUM!

Seven Stills K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #12 Whipnose Whiskey 375ml $35.99Barrel #12 has more spice and vanilla than the others with added richness on the midpalate. A beer drinker's delight!

Seven Stills K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #14 Whipnose Whiskey 375ml $35.99Barrel # 14 has lots of skunky hops and maple notes. The most IPAish of the group.

Seven Stills K&L Exclusive Single Barrel #15 Whipnose Whiskey 375ml $35.99Barrel #15 is the most like the original batch of Whipnose. Lots of tingly citric action on the entry, hoppy through the middle, and full of sweet maple on the finish. Gotta love it!

-David Driscoll

Tuesday
Apr212015

The Takeaway: 2015 Trends From This Year's Trip

It’s funny how life works sometimes. As a store, K&L has spent the last ten years focusing on single malt whisky as a category; telling our customers that the quality of the individual whiskies themselves is often better and more exciting than what you what find in a standard blend. We’ve achieved incredible success by almost completely eliminating blended whisky as a category we even carry. Yet, as we made our first stop of the 2015 tour at Compass Box headquarters outside of central London, we went with the intention of going right back to a category we’ve shunned for the better part of a decade. We wanted the help of John and his team to create a better mousetrap—a modern version of a blend, maybe even a blended single malt (without the grain whisky)—and ultimately return to where we came from; albeit with a new forward-thinking approach. You see, ideas in any industry can only remain fresh and cutting edge for so long. Eventually they’re discovered, copied, marketed, corporatized, and played out until every last drop of originality and quality can be squeezed from their life blood. Single malt whisky is hot again? You don’t say? All of a sudden the number of single malt whiskies at most boutique retailers out-numbers the blends by 100 to 1. If you needed more proof to find out just how long this gravy train is getting, look at the number of new single malt brands being cleared for release by distilleries normally reserved for blending purposes. Cragellachie, Royal Brackla, and Mortlach are now suddenly brands with their own unique portfolios, overcrowding an already-overcrowded category, thoroughly confusing and confounding those drinkers who thought they had the category mastered.

According to Glen Moore from the Glasgow Distillery group, Scotland also currently has zoning plans in the works for twenty-seven new single malt distilleries, not counting the ones we already know about. Whether they'll all be built is another story, but it does show you that there's still faith in continual growth. The revival of the category is just getting started—at least from the global corporate perspective. So how do you stay ahead of the single malt industry when the game is being inundated by more and more players? You work smaller, you move faster, you update a catchy blog every day with new information, you work directly with top consumers, and you hope that your relationships and your access help you stay one step in front of everyone else. Of course, why would you want to fight, scratch, and claw to stay ahead of the game when you can just coast, copy, and cash in on the trends that other industry professionals create? Because we care, dammit. Because we’re interested in what’s next. Because this is our life. We live to make progress, and seeing that I work in the booze industry (and I don’t see myself getting out any time soon) I’m looking to the past to make the future of booze a better place. It’s an exciting time, actually. What was once old is quickly becoming fresh, hip, and new once again. It’s all being reinvented, over and over, just like fashion in any other industry.

We’re supposed to prefer single malts over blends because we love the bolder, richer, more satisfying flavor that pure malt whisky can offer; an intensely gratifying palate beyond the capabilities of any other spirit I know of. No other distillate of any kind can achieve that level complexity and depth, with the variety of character and the versatility of style deriving from more than a decade in wood—continuing to improve year after year. However, while wandering the duty free shops at Heathrow today, looking at the 300+ bottles of single malt brands on the shelves (none of them independently-bottled, mind you), I was struck by how boring, shallow, and lacking in both character and versatility the airport game has become. It feels like a bunch of brands selling you their leftovers with fancy-packaging under the guise of exclusivity, more than it does a selection of interesting and inspiring bottles to bring back from abroad. The single cask game was once the source (and often times still is) of inspiration because you could find something untampered, unique, and in small of enough quantities that few people would bother doing anything with it. What brand is going to want 200 bottles of 41 year old Teaninich? We do, but Diageo doesn’t—it’s just not worth their time (that’s why they call it a “niche” market).

That being said, the availability of quality single barrels from independent bottlers is getting slimmer and slimmer as brands begin circling the wagons around their available stocks, while still more and more people want in on the action. It’s at the point now where some labels are willing to bottle single barrel whisky just for the sake of it. Don’t get me wrong: I think this year’s K&L crop of casks is going to be just fine, but the most exciting malt whisky we'll bring home in 2015 won’t be from a single cask. It will be a single malt blend, and it will comprise a couple of spectacular whiskies that taste 100% better when you mix them together in specific and calculated amounts. In the olden days of Scotch whisky, the skilled blending of the best tasters was seen as an art—something that separated your brand of whisky from the other would-be competitors. Today, ironically enough, many think it portrays a lack of taste. However, if flavor is what matters to you—if you’re truly all about the flavor, and not the proof, or the score, or the brand, or the label, or the box, or the rarity, or the collectibility, or the resale value, or the status that certain said bottles bring to those who run in certain circles, then you’re going to want to pay attention to what’s happening with Compass Box and other houses we’re working directly with like Michel Courvreur. Trends die when they become formulaic and played out, but everything eventually comes back around again later; hopefully better, more finely-tuned, and with a slightly modern edge. See teeny-bopper boy bands, high-waisted pants, Doc Martin boots, and deviled eggs as current examples. 

All trends have their ebbs and flows, their ups and downs, their yins and yangs. When as a culture we become stodgy and conservative, a new generation of brash, loud, and unapologetic youth will always rise to counter that rigidness. When modernity goes too far and suddenly we lose our manners in the face of a touch screen, we experience a nostalgic fondness for the old ways—you know, back when people had respect and class. Look at the cocktail movement that’s been happening for the last eight years as an example. The industry was full of TGIFridays-style bars, serving bland rum with hyper-sweetened fruit juice, putting schnapps and chocolate ice cream in a blender, and looking for any way we could to make drinking fun—but at the expense of the alcohol itself. When things got too out of control, a new movement of pre-Prohibitionists vowed to get serious again about making drinks—doing things the old-fashioned way, back when people appreciated the stiffness and the inherent flavor of strong drink. 

But, of course, these revolutions can also go too far. The twirly mustaches, adorned pocket watches, and fashion of the Belle Epoque are a fun gag for the moment, but they too have become passé; they’ve become the calling cards of super trendy behavior. My generation’s tramp stamp tattoo is this generation’s cursive handwriting on the forearm. The hipster sitting at the counter telling you about his Stitzel-Weller collection, once seen as cultured and educated, is soon a caricature of ridiculous pedantry. He’s just following the rules like everyone else; using a list he read on the internet to treat his perceived knowledge like some form of social currency. But that currency only lasts for so long before people lose interest and move on, and these guys are left sitting there like Uncle Rico, talking about past glories and the good old days—when they could throw a bottle of Pappy over them there mountains. Why am I bringing all this up? Because it’s all a pattern; a schematic that you can read all over the cosmopolitan landscape like Neo following the code in the Matrix. The past can and will continue to inspire us, but it will only create quality when we use that inspiration to make things better. You want better quality in your drinking? You need to ignore today’s derivative cultural barometer and look at where we’re heading. Rather than look at another version of the same old whisky, just with a higher price and without an age statement, you need to look at what people are actually doing to make things better. We visited numerous bars in Glasgow and London that were making classically-tailored cocktails without the pretense. It's becoming a necessity for any good bar to have an understanding of pre-Prohibition recipes. But it's where you take that foundation from there that matters.

So who's out there making better products? Let’s define terms here though, shall we? When I say “better”, I don’t just mean that age old dream: higher quality spirits at lower prices. That type of undercutting doesn’t necessarily equate to long-term or sustainable improvement, nor is it realistic. When I say “better”, I mean it as in: the current version was no longer getting the job done, so someone made an adjustment. Let’s look at some of the examples I saw on our most recent trip. Hine Cognac is an example of a larger brandy house realizing that the same old blends are simply not what the up and coming generation of spirits drinkers wants. Big brand Cognac is deader than dead with today’s younger generation of savvy drinkers, unless you’re ordering Hennessy at the club while gettin’ your dance on.  Hine, however, has realized that they will need to adjust to this unavoidable modernity movement. It’s no longer just about making the smoothest Cognac on the market. It’s about history, authenticity, localization, information, and quality, but while looking at where the market is headed. That’s why Hine is digging through their vast stocks to being releasing single barrel Cognacs, single estate Cognacs, and single vintage Cognacs—all concepts that wouldn’t have gone over well ten years ago, but today are becoming standard fare. They’re doing multi-vintage blends as well, keeping the flavors consistent and classic, all while giving discerning enthusiasts the detailed and deeper experience they’re looking for.

And the Cognacs taste better! They’re more interesting, purer in flavor, and they vary wildly in character. I was very excited after our meeting where we tasted several single cask possibilities. What I like most of all, however, is that they’re not putting these brandies into old-timey, handwritten labels that look like they were created 100 years ago. Hine as a company was created more than 250 years ago, so history is already on their side. They have the authenticity already. I personally love their sleek and modern packaging, firmly rooting them among the more forward-thinking producers in a conservative region not known for its elasticity or creativity. Just because you’re modern doesn’t mean you’re not also classic. There’s always a black leather jacket in every major designer’s Fall fashion collection. It keeps getting reinvented, but it never loses its classic cool.

Better doesn’t just mean more options or authentic and transparent marketing. It might also mean giving spirits fans something they’re sorely lacking. While the Bay Area is noted for its superb urban distilleries—St. George and Anchor, for example—distillation has long been associated with the countryside, farming, or remote locations where zoning laws and property taxes were far more beneficial for doing business. The problem with putting a distillery in the middle of nowhere, however, is that it’s difficult for consumers to both visit and learn more about the product. Putting a great brewery or distillery in the middle of a metropolis is like giving it a major sports franchise—it’s a symbol for the community to rally around and be proud of. It’s also much more easy to visit! The number one question I get asked about visiting distilleries in Scotland usually goes something like this: Hey David, I’m going to be in Edinburgh next week for business. What whisky distillery should I visit? Uhhhhh…..are you going to have a car? Because there ain’t no whisky distilleries in Edinburgh. There aren’t any in downtown Glasgow either. With the exception of a few Lowland standouts, the vast majority of Scotland’s whisky distilleries are nowhere near its metropolitan center.

Yet, as we’re learning about today’s next generation of urban youngsters, they’re not running off to live in the suburbs like previous generations did. Rents are higher than ever, property is completely out of reach, and money is scare for many of them, but they’re adapting and changing their lifestyles as a result. They’re not having kids. They’re not putting their money into 401Ks. They’re instead spending that money on local foods and interesting booze, rather than a twelve pack and a Domino’s pizza. Going out isn't so much a luxury for this group as it is a necessity! So urban centers are growing. Many alcoholic businesses cringe at the overhead required to build a modern urban dwelling, but ask the San Francisco Giants how that’s working out for them. They took the feel of an old-time baseball park and transposed it into an architecturally-modern facility that is today considered the pinnacle of its type. I see the same type of transformation happening in Glasgow with the Morrison’s new Glasgow Distillery. They’re planning to take an historic property along the Clyde River and build a striking facade from steel and glass right next to it—juxtaposing the new and sleek with the traditions of old. It will be a distillery, a museum, a retail shop, and a convention center. It will be the new center of Scotch whisky to those hundreds of thousands of tourists who don’t have time to frolic up to the Highlands or brave the ferry to Islay. I was very, very impressed with the plans I saw for the site and the concepts that are currently being laid out. Like AT&T Park and the new Anchor facility going in soon right next to it, companies of all types are beginning to realize that the future of any business still built on an experience that cannot be digitized or downloaded is going to happen in the center of our cities. And it’s about time a Scotch whisky distillery grew a pair of balls and put a distillery where everyone knows a distillery should be: right in the center of town.

So what's happening? Blends were replaced by more dynamic single malts, only to later return in a more dynamic form themselves. Small Cognac producers united to become larger Cognac houses, only to watch those houses break themselves down once again into smaller, more quality-oriented labels. Whisky production moves from the urban landscape to the cheaper, more cost-effective countryside, only to return once again to the heart of the city. It's all a cycle, but each time a bit different than before. For the past six months I've been traveling all over the world to see what's happening with the spirits business and it seems to me like the modern momentum is growing. Ten years ago, the boutique market rejected modernity in favor of old-fashioned quality. Today, that schtick has been beaten to death. The new market wants a combination of quality, authenticity, and fun. They want better flavor from a more hands-on experience. They want information and excitement. They want big brands to have the care and quality of a small brand, and small brands to have the pricing and scale of a large brand. They want fresh ideas from old faces. They want historic tradition boxed up inside a unique and relevant perspective. In other words, they want the whole package. And there are people out there ready to give it to them.

Who else is going to step up? I'll be excited to see.

-David Driscoll

Monday
Apr202015

Bordeaux to Burgundy

 

 

It's never easy leaving Gascogne. When we're in Montreal it feels like home. I'm pretty sure they like us too. Whether its cause we eat and drink like the French, love to laugh and tell jokes or just because we keep showing up with tons of Armagnac to share, there's no question that leaving the Daubin family behind each year is tough. I think our departure really affected them this year and we had a touching moment my last morning. I mean Driscoll had busted his ass for the last several month, taking about every free moment to study, just so that he could communicate with these people. And communicate we did. They promised that they would seriously consider coming to California to bring that Sud-Ouest flair to both San Francisco and Los Angeles. That's right, Bernard was actually ultra excited to bring a bit of "La Vie Gascogne" to the west coast. "To teach us how to live," he said. He even assured me that he'd be in Los Angeles, a destination he had unequivocally ruled out in the past. That's good news for EVERYONE.

After a somber goodbye and a strong coffee, Charles and I headed up to Bordeaux to pick up the rental car. I had a monster car ride planned and wasn't at all looking forward to it. It didn't help that the Eurocar was out of NavSystems when I got there. This inspite of my paying online in advanced for the upgrade. I was told that there was no possible way for them get one until the following week. I kind of spent a few minutes fiddling with my phone pretending to call the Travel Agent, but basically in full panic, when the clerk announced that they had found one at another location. She must have felt pity for me (a rare emotion for middle aged French women) because she offered to show me the way, as of course I had no idea how to get there. Serious life saver.

We'd spent several days in the south west and had found some amazing stuff. It was by far the most beautiful the Gers had ever been, with budding already well advanced in some areas and sunny days well into the high 70s. Now, I planned to traverse France on a much less inviting journey. The seven hour drive would only be marked by a quick stop at a small producer in the center of France.

Hérisson is a medieval town with a thriving theatrical scene. In the summer, thousands of French people from all over the country congregate on this small town for multitude of performances. It's tiny, it’s gorgeous and it's in the middle of nowhere. In 1984, one the towns top actors and directors, Mr. Perrier (known locally as Monsieur Balthazar), had an idea! He wanted to have a local product that he could offer his guests during their visits. Of course, this part of France is not wine growing country. It's the breadbasket and he goal was to cultivate a product of terroir. He found an old perfume still and began his experimentation. Over the course of the next two decades he experimented endlessly. His refusal to visit another whisky distillery of any kind came from a desire to never be "influenced" by outside sources. In 2000, when he retired from the stage, he began production in earnest. He'd bring his wares to the market in Auvergne, labelling it "Hedgehog Straight Whiskey Bourbonnais". Hedgehog for the town Hérisson, which is translated as such, and Bourbonnais for this historical region home to the royal House of Bourbon which corresponds with the modern day department of Allier, where of course Hérisson is located. Don't ask me too much about the word Straight, but they're definitely making whiskey. A few years ago, after finding some initial success, Mr. Perrier enlisted the help of a professional distiller named David Faverot. Approximately two years later, Faverot purchased the distillery, which now sits next to Perrier's personal home in Venas - 5km from Hérisson. Faverot jumped head first into this unusual project and immediately began to expand and experiment further.

The whiskey it's self is unlike any I've ever tasted. Many things about it are atypical and some details were off the table in the name of IP. Nonetheless, I did get some interesting info. Faverot begins with 45% (although the website states the mashbill contains 65%) locally grown organic corn. He then adds 10% rye also grown in the region. Finally, the recipe is completed with a healthy dollop of malted barley, which he buys from a malt house about an hour away. All this goes into the wash back (a Slovenian design) where the enzymes from the malted barley break down the complex carbos in the corn and rye. Fermentation is completed in small drums, which allow for easy experimentation with various yeast strains as well as easy cleaning. Faverot made a point of stating that fermentation was the crucial step in creating the profile of the end product, a fact not often focused by craft distillers stateside. He, however, did not want to divulge the exact details of that process.

After fermentation, into the new 10 hectoliter copper pot still it goes. The alembic, which was constructed by Holstein, is connected to an extra large traditional worm tub, a la Cognac. This he says, is extremely important for capturing and refining the aromatics of the grain. The first distillation is divided three ways - heads, heart and tails and lasts a very long 12 hours. The second distillation lasting 13 hours, in the very same still mind you, is separated into four cuts: heads, tails, hearts and seconds. The second distillation consists of the hearts of the first and the seconds from the previous batch. The wart always contains coarsely milled whole grains and is never filtered before entering the still. Everything is done completely by hand and he uses only his senses and a thermometer to determine the timing of the cuts.

The elevage is absolutely unique and includes some elements from Cognac with subtle similarities to other types of whiskey. Of course, Mr. Faverot has not really changed the original aging scheme created by the founder, so none of those similarities are at all intentional. They begin with locally harvested Troncais oak. It has an extremely tight grain and was traditionally used for the creation of warships, but today is integral in the creation of many great wines and spirits throughout France and beyond. The staves are fashioned into cognac style barrels and heavily toasted, but not charred. The whiskey spends at least 1 year (sometimes more) in these barrels before being transferred into used oak, similar to the to Cognac. Aeration is apparently of the utmost importance and is performed on a regular basis using various tools. The ultimate assemblage is around 4-5 years old, but no particular recipe exists and blends are made to taste. They hold back a small portion of each bottling for further aging as insurance if something isn't tasting right. By using this well aged blend of older whiskey he is able straighten out underperforming assemblages and guarantee consistency. As Faverot begins to make his mark at the distillery, it’s clear that he’s committed to maintaining the original goal of creating something absolutely unique and distinctly local. He reminds me regularly that the goal is  not to make bourbon in France, but instead to capture and refine the unique aromas of these special grains. Nowhere else in the world of whisky is this goal so overtly championed. Of course, in the spirit of experimentation some overlaps with the outside world exist. These barriques from a fourth growth Chateau in Sauterne stood out as particularly special and not altogether unfamiliar – although they're not at all on the table for purchase currently.

In Addition to their whiskey, they offer a grain eau-de-vie called Bordvodeu and an herbal orange liqueur, the Bourbonnais Des Iles. Both were quite unusual and made exclusively with spirit distilled in house. These might very well be the first products we order from David. Needless to say we'll need to change the label on that liqueur!!!

I’m not sure the whisky from The Distillery de Monsieur Balthazar will ever make it stateside, considering he was only able to offer us a handful of bottles, but if it does and you want to try something completely different and utterly unique, I can categorically recommend it. That said, the new still is signicantly larger than before - arriving late in 2014 - so availability will slowly but surely increase. Hopefully under the titulage of Mr. Faverot, the Hedgehog Whiskey of Hérisson will continue to improve and perhaps one day will be available at K&L.

I left the little distillery unsure of the road ahead. It began to drizzle. As I inched toward Burgundy, the drizzle became a torrent. Four hours later I pulled into Beaune almost regretting my decision to strike out on my own. The quaint sunny country side of Gascogne had been replaced by darkness and rain. No longer was the landscaped marked by humble farms and little tractors, but instead regal manors and Maseratis. What bounty would Burgundy hold for us? I was concerned, tired and absolutely famished. Luckily a familiar faced waited for me at the hotel's bistro. Jean-Arnauld from Michel Couvreur was there with his partners. They neglected to tell me prior to my arrival that that bistro is connected to a Michelin starred restaurant. I suddenly remembered why I love Burgundy so goddamned much. 

-David Othenin-Girard

Monday
Apr202015

France: Day 9 - Paris in the Spring Time

Due to some unforeseen complications back in the states, I was forced to take a slight detour on my planned adventure. Rather than come home Friday the 24th, I needed to get back by Monday to take care of some important business (the perils of greater responsibility). That meant departing from my friend Charles on Saturday morning and catching a train from Bordeaux to Paris. I got in later that afternoon, booked a room at the Relais Bousquet (they even gave me the same room I had back in February), and tried to enjoy what little time I had in the city. The warm weather in Gascony had definitely carried over to the French capital and people were out and about, soaking up the sun, playing the flâneur in fine fashion. 

There was a 5K run for charity going on along the Seine. The weather was absolutely perfect. When it looks like this in Paris you almost don't know what to do; you just sit there, kind of stupified, wondering if you should get a beer, or go for a walk, or maybe just stand there and take it all in.  

But I'm not over here for my health or to fulfill my own metropolitan needs, so if I was going to spend a day wandering around Paris, I was going to need to do some market research or something. Apparently, when it's warm and sunny in Paris, you can get a deal on Ruinart. There, now that I've done my day's work I can get back to enjoying myself.

I'm all about the 7th arrondissement. It's just the perfect spot for me. Tons of bars, no one under the age of 21, none of that nouveau riche bullshit, but with some super hip cocktail action and a load of good pâtisseries, boulangeries, and cafés. Plus, there's a secret square near the hotel that packs in a fun crowd.

Back to work now. I happened to be near the Maison du Whisky on my big walk Saturday evening, so I had to go in and check it out. I hadn't been in since 2012 and I think I had just simply forgotten about the size and scope of what's going on along the Rue d'Anjou. You might think Scotland is the place to go in search of interesting and rare single malts, but the French drink far more Scotch whisky than the Scottish do. Therefore, it's only logical that they would have the best shops. La Maison du Whisky is, simply put, the best single malt whisky store I've ever been to. They have everything. Anything. All the things you could ever want, and a bunch of stuff you never even knew existed. Not only is the selection completely overwhelming, the store is beautifully curated and—in typical Parisian fashion—it's stylish, clean, and sleek. I tip my hat to retail greatness.

By the time most of you guys read this I'll be on a plane back to the U.S.; another great trip under my belt. Hopefully David OG can find some interesting things in Switzerland and Eastern France to add on to the already huge pile of booty. Hopefully we can keep the momentum going and really become the premier merchant (in the truest sense) of fine spirits in the U.S. Hopefully you had fun reading these posts over the last few weeks!

Hopefully I can make it back into the store next week in one piece. Signing off. Another year in the books.

-David Driscoll